Shiny and frosted cosmetics have a similar affect to light coloured make-up. They enhance or bring out the area on which they are applied. To maximize this effect, combine the two qualities – light and shine. Light make-up colours that are frosted or shiny will make an area appear even more pronounced. The facial feature where it is applied will appear larger and visually push out more than when applying a light matte cosmetic colour. This maximum effect will also cause the area around it to appear flat or sunken in comparison. This can work wonders to enhance the lips, cheek bones, eye lids or brow bones.
Make-up application relates to the actual structure of the head and face.
The natural hills and valleys of the face can be recreated or enhanced with optical illusions created by using light and dark cosmetics.
Highlighting is the application of a make-up colour that is lighter than the surrounding area. This area will appear more pronounced than the area next to it.
The easiest way to achieve natural looking results is to choose your make-up in light tints, dark shades, and muted tones rather than clear, bright hues. The more muted the colour, the more neutral it becomes.
- Neutral colours are the most versatile and work well with most skin tones and eye colours unless you are very fair or very dark. e.g. browns, black, greys, tints (off whites), etc.
- For more drama, when working with eyes, choose a tone from the colours opposite your eye colour on the colour wheel. e.g. Blue eyes – coral, peach, pink and yellow tones.
Matte cosmetics appear flat on the skin. A dark matte product will absorb more light than a dark frosted colour, making the area appear more receded. A matte light colour will appear flat on the skin compared to a shiny, light colour.
Use medium to deep make-up colours with a matte finish on facial areas that you which to look pushed back. This application applied under the cheek bones, in the crease above the eye lid and other areas will add definition to your facial features.
The other day a client asked me how to make her eyes look bigger without wearing a lot of make-up. I told her that a simple way to make her eyes look bigger is to curl her eye lashes. An Eye lash curler is an inexpensive tool that is sold at many cosmetic retailers.
These are the steps that I take to get the best results:
- Open the curler
- Open your eyes wide and look into a mirror rather than at the curler while going through the following steps.
- Place the top bar of the curler on top of your upper lashes (look through the curler while doing this)
- Slowly squeeze the bottom bar up.
- Hold for about 20 seconds while holding your eyes open
- Open the curler and release the lashes
Once you have curled your lashes you can add even more impact with mascara
As an image consultant and make-up artist, women are always asking me how to make their lipstick last longer. I tell them to start by applying a concealer on your natural lip line. Next, line the lips with a lip pencil and then thicken the line onto the lips. Take your lip brush and blend the lip-liner onto the lips to soften the liner. Then apply the lipstick with a lip brush. Blot the lip colour. This method will keep your lip colour looking great longer.
Choose your foundation as close as possible to your skin colour. The best place to test this is at the jaw line. The reason we test the colour here instead of the wrist, cheek or forehead is because the skin colour will be different on every area. The colour of your neck will be different than the colour of the skin on various parts of your face.
Your best colour will blend into your skin tone at the jaw line and look natural next to the skin tone of your neck. Happy testing…
The right foundation will last on the skin, be comfortable to wear and give you the right amount of coverage that suits your personality and needs. Choose foundation based on four things:
- Your skin type – knowing your skin type before you buy will save you a lot of head aches. It will make your foundation last longer and be more comfortable. For example a dry skin would likely want a foundation that adds nourishment and moisture to the skin. An oily skin would likely want something oil free.
- These days there are so many choices for foundation formulas. Although liquid is still the most popular, consider cream, wet-dry or mineral powder. Each foundation has different qualities.
- Coverage is something you should consider before buying your foundation. Do you want a natural look, a flawless complexion or something in between?
- After you have determined your preferences based on skin type, formula and coverage it is time to decide on finish. Finish is like the finishing touch. This is also where fashion and personal preference come into play. Do you want a matte finish, satin finish, velvety finish? There are lots of options. Choose the one you like the best or go for fashion.
Once you have narrowed this down then it is time to choose the colour. I will tell you all about it in my next blog post.
Clients always ask me how I get my foundation to last all day. The secret – finish your foundation with a light dusting of translucent powder. With a powder brush, press the powder into the skin. Then dust off the excess in a downward outward motion.
Using a q-tip or a fine concealer brush, apply concealer to any area that needs extra covering. The best concealer colour is one that matches your foundation or the colour of the skin next to the concealed area (if you are going Au naturale). With your ring finger pat and press it into place. Concealer can be applied alone, on top or below foundation.